Vair by Gudrun Johnston

Vair

Knitting
October 2021
Fingering (14 wpi) ?
27 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches
in over St st on 3.25mm needles after blocking
US 4 - 3.5 mm
US 3 - 3.25 mm
US 2½ - 3.0 mm
1444 - 2581 yards (1320 - 2360 m)
1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)
English
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Gudrun Johnston joins forces with Pom Pom Press for the latest instalment of her Shetland Trader series. This third volume explores the very roots of the series: the made-to-order knitwear business run in the 1970s by Patricia Johnston, Gudrun’s mother, which operated as The Shetland Trader.

Through archival research and a network of family, friends, and fibre enthusiasts, Gudrun has unearthed some of her mother’s best-loved designs and updated them for contemporary knitters. This collection contains 11 patterns for garments and accessories. Use them to create seventies-inspired dream ensembles as well as heirloom pieces incorporating traditional Shetland knitting techniques and motifs.

Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)
Bust circumference: 81.5 (89, 96.5, 104, 111.5, 119, 126.5, 134, 141.5, 149)cm / 32 (35, 38, 41, 43¾, 46¾, 49¾, 52¾, 55¾, 58¾)“
Recommended to be worn with approx 0–2.5cm / 0–1” of negative ease. See schematic key in book for full details.

Yarn (fingering / 4-ply-weight yarn in the following amounts):
Colourway 1
The model’s height is 173cm / 5’8”, with a chest circumference of 89cm / 35”, and is wearing a size 2 (with striped razor shell body, balloon sleeves and turtle neck) shown in:

Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper Weight
(fingering / 4-ply-weight; 100% Real Shetland Wool; 115m / 125yds per 25g ball)
MC: Shade 77; 10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15, 16) balls
CC2: Shade 54; 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
CC4: Shade FC38; 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
and
Jamieson & Smith Shetland Supreme Jumper Weight (fingering / 4-ply-weight; 100% Real Shetland Wool; 172m / 188yds per 50g ball)
CC1: Moorit (2004); 1 ball
CC3: Shaela (2003); 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2) balls
OR approx
MC: 1075 (1145, 1215, 1290, 1355, 1430, 1510, 1595, 1680, 1765)m / 1180 (1255, 1330, 1410, 1485, 1565, 1655, 1745, 1840, 1930)yds
CC1: 45 (50, 55, 60, 65, 65, 70, 75, 85, 90)m / 50 (50, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95)yds
CC2: 90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 155, 165, 175, 190)m / 100 (110, 120, 135, 145, 155, 165, 180, 195, 205)yds
CC3: 85 (95, 105, 115, 125, 130, 140, 150, 165, 175)m / 95 (100, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165, 180, 190)yds
CC4: 70 (75, 85, 90, 100, 105, 115, 125, 135, 140)m / 75 (85, 90, 100, 110, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155)yds

Colourway 2
The model’s height is 173cm / 5’8”, with a chest circumference of 112cm / 44”, and is wearing a size 5 (with striped razor shell body, balloon sleeves and crew neck) shown in:

Jamieson’s of Shetland Spindrift (fingering / 4-ply-weight; 100% Shetland Wool; 105m / 115yds per 25g ball)
MC: Camel; 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15, 15) balls
CC1: Cocoa; 1 ball
CC2: Shaela; 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
CC3: Tundra; 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
CC4: Moorit; 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
OR approx
MC: 950 (1010, 1085, 1150, 1210, 1275, 1345, 1420, 1500, 1580)m / 1040 (1105, 1185, 1260, 1325, 1400, 1475, 1555, 1640, 1730)yds
CC1: 45 (50, 55, 60, 65, 65, 70, 75, 85, 90)m / 50 (50, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95)yds
CC2: 90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 155, 165, 175, 190)m / 100 (110, 120, 135, 145, 155, 165, 180, 195, 205)yds
CC3: 85 (95, 105, 115, 125, 130, 140, 150, 165, 175)m / 95 (100, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165, 180, 190)yds
CC4: 70 (75, 85, 90, 100, 105, 115, 125, 135, 140)m / 75 (85, 90, 100, 110, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155)yds

Colourway 3
The model’s height is 173cm / 5’8”, with a chest circumference of 89cm / 35”, and is wearing a size 2 (with plain MC razor shell body, straight sleeves and turtle neck) shown in:
Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper Weight
(fingering / 4-ply-weight; 100% Real Shetland Wool; 115m / 125yds per 25g ball)
MC: Shade 4; 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) balls
CC1: Shade 202; 1 ball
CC2: Shade 27; 1 ball
CC3: Shade 3; 1 ball
CC4: Shade 32; 1 ball
OR approx
MC: 1235 (1345, 1455, 1575, 1675, 1785, 1895, 2010, 2165, 2290)m / 1345 (1460, 1585, 1710, 1820, 1940, 2060, 2180, 2350, 2485)yds
CC1: 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)m / 45 (50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90)yds
CC2: 30 (35, 35, 40, 45, 45, 50, 55, 55, 60)m / 35 (35, 40, 45, 45, 50, 55, 60, 60, 65)yds
CC3: 30 (30, 35, 35, 40, 40, 45, 50, 50, 55)m / 30 (35, 35, 40, 40, 45, 50, 50, 55, 60)yds
CC4: 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 15)m / 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 15, 15)yds

Gauge:
27 sts & 32 rounds = 10cm / 4” over Razor Shell Pattern on 3.5mm needles after blocking
27 sts & 34 rounds = 10cm / 4” over Fair Isle Pattern on 3.5mm needles after blocking
27 sts & 40 rounds = 10cm / 4” over St st on 3.25mm needles after blocking

Needles:
3.5mm / US 4 circular needle, 80cm / 32” or 100cm / 40” length (for the body)
3.25mm / US 3 circular needle, 80cm / 32” or 100cm / 40” length (for the body)
3.25mm / US 3 DPNs or long circular needle (if working magic loop for sleeves)
3mm / US 2 DPNs or long circular needle (if working magic loop for sleeves for cuff)
3.25mm / US 3 circular needle, 40cm / 16” length (for neckband)
3.5mm / US 4 circular needle, 40cm / 16” length (for neckband, turtle neck version only)
Always use a needle size that will result in the correct gauge after blocking.

Notions:
4 stitch markers (one of which should be unique for beginning of round), 2 locking stitch markers, waste yarn or stitch holder (for holding live sts), tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Notes:
This sweater is worked in one piece from the bottom up. Front and back are then divided at the underarm and steek stitches are cast on to work the remainder of the upper body in the round. Additional steeks are added for front neck. After the shoulders have been joined stitches are then picked up around the armhole and short rows are worked to shape the sleeve cap. There is a choice of straight or balloon sleeves, as well as crew or turtleneck finishing. It is also possible to switch in the sleeves from Bunaberry or either of the dresses, Elsk and Hjarta.
If extra length is required, add additional rounds of MC Razor Shell Pattern at the start and end of the body.