The pattern stitch for this vest, with its little boxes, is an adaptation of the traditional Gansey stitch, “Grampian Steps”, consisting of eight rows, five of which are in just plain knitting. It reminded me of my button box, with all its little compartments calling out to be filled with treasures. In this case, I answered the call with small French knots, adding subtle texture to the pockets and upper back.

I’ve always loved knits with small details that only fully reveal themselves close up. You might want to substitute beads, embroidery, or even special buttons. This is a useful layering piece with flattering waist shaping and a feminine shawl collar knitted on in short rows (no tidying up of wraps required because it’s in garter stitch).

Because it’s also seamless, you’ll only need to pick up a sewing needle to tack down the pocket linings and weave in the ends. The model worn here is knitted in Brooklyn Tweed’s Shelter; I made the prototype in Blue-faced Leicester spun and plied with a drop spindle to produce a 2-ply worsted weight yarn.

Correction to p6 of Knitty pattern:
Begin knot motif in centre back:
Row 1 (RS): K1, patt 18 (23, 27, 32, 36, 40), pm, patt 17, pm, patt 18 (23, 27, 32, 36, 40), k1.
Row 2: P1, patt 18 (23, 27, 32, 36, 40), sl marker, patt 17, sl marker, patt 18 (23, 27, 32, 36, 40), p1.

About Chart A:
The words, “Start here”, apply to the reading of RS rows. You will notice that each RS row begins and ends with 2 knit stitches (the outer one is the selvedge for picking up the border). Apologies for any confusion. There were some communication difficulties during the editing process.

For a deeper shawl collar:
Using a needle one size smaller needle than that used for the body), and starting at the bottom of the right front, pick up sts along the right front band, around the collar, and down the left front band. Do so using the same ratios I presented earlier:

for vertical sections (front bands and the upper V-neck), pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows,
for diagonal bits (the V-neck and the short slopes on either side of the back neck) pick up one st for every row,
in the tiny gaps between the back neck slopes and the centre back neck, work M1s into the horizontal strand in the gap; make the M1s lean toward the centre back neck, i.e. M1L on the right hand side, and M1R on the left hand side.

Knit one row. Insert locking st markers where you want your buttonholes to be. The top one should be 3 stitches below the V-neck, and I like the bottom one to be about an inch from the bottom. Space the others accordingly. Place them BETWEEN the two stitches where you want each buttonhole to go. Use locking stitch markers of a different colour to mark where the V-neck begins and ends.

Buttonhole row AND beginning of short rows for collar(RS): Knit to 2 sts before buttonhole marker, k2tog, YO, k2tog, rep from until last buttonhole is completed, knit around collar to 2 sts before left side V-neck marker (the second one), SWR (see below), turn.

(WS row): Knit to 2 sts before right side V-neck marker, SWR, turn.

Knit to 4 sts before left side V-neck marker, SWR, turn.

Knit to 4 sts before right side V-neck marker, SWR, turn.

Knit to 6 sts before left side V-neck marker, SWR, turn.

Knit to 6 sts before right side V-neck marker, SWR, turn.

Cont to work pairs of short rows, working the wraps 2 sts apart until there are 22 wraps on ea side in total (total desired number of garter st ridges minus 3).
AT SAME TIME, after about half the total desired number of ridges counted from the RS of the back, inc approx 3” worth of sts by the kfb method in the centre back between the shoulders. The increase row must be worked on the side that will become the RS when the collar is flipped over into its position when worn.
After the last SWR and turn, knit to end, ignoring wraps, i.e. don’t bother to neaten them (see note below).

Next Row (WS): Knit to end, ignoring wraps, and working (k1, p1) into each YO to complete the buttonholes.

Last Row: Knit.

BO knitwise from the WS., using a 4 mm dpn in your right hand for the front borders (which should be worked rather When casting off, work the last 2 sts tog for a neat corner.